Stage 9: On display are four costumes from the movie The Marriage of Maria Braun (FRG 1978), directed by Rainer Werner Fassbinder.
The first costume on the left is:
a check suit and straw hat with net veil as worn by Hanna Schygulla in her role as Maria Braun.
This woolen suit has a very tight black-and-white check pattern known as “shepherd’s check.” The hip-length jacket with peplum has four large buttons and the pencil skirt is calf-length with a “Dior vent” – a slit with a piece of fabric inserted behind it. Two pocket flaps are stitched onto the front of the jacket, one on the left and one on the right, at hip height. The lapel and cuffs are covered in dark-gray velvet. The accessories are a palm-sized black cloth camellia close to the left lapel, and a wide-brimmed black straw hat, embellished with a black coarse-mesh tulle veil with white dots.
Rainer Werner Fassbinder Foundation / Deutsche Kinemathek – Museum für Film und Fernsehen, Berlin
To the right of that is:
Winter coat also as worn by Hanna Schygulla.
This cream-colored, calf-length woolen tent coat has a wide fit and no fastening. The long raglan sleeves are truncated, stopping just before the wrist. The wide over-the-shoulder shawl collar and large cuffs are both made of ocelot fur, which gives the coat an air of chic elegance.
Rainer Werner Fassbinder Foundation / Deutsche Kinemathek – Museum für Film und Fernsehen, Berlin
The third costume along is:
Blue evening gown with lace reverse over-blouse also as worn by Hanna Schygulla.
This dark-blue satin dress is calf-length and has thin straps. The skirt features several godets around the bottom – these are additional wedge-shaped pieces of fabric that cause the skirt to flare. The godets are decorated in fine tulle lace with a pattern of large flowers and leaves – the same lace used for the long-sleeved reverse bolero, which is worn open at the back. The edges of the blouse are decorated with glass beads, and the clasp at the neck features a single rhinestone. The wearer’s light skin shows plainly through the sheer fabric, drawing attention to the chest and arms.
Rainer Werner Fassbinder Foundation / Deutsche Kinemathek – Museum für Film und Fernsehen, Berlin
On the far right is:
Post-war dress, fur cap and jacket as worn by Hanna Schygulla.
This close-fitting, knee-length woolen dress is in two different shades of blue. The three-quarter-length sleeves are light blue at the front and dark blue at the back. The sides of the dress are dark blue, with a broad vertical pale-blue band running down the center. Where the two colors meet to the right and left of this center band, there is an appliqued decoration from shoulder to hem of a winding vine with leaves. On the dark background, the leaves are light; on the light background, dark and light leaves alternate. The vines come close together at the waist. The neckline of the dress cuts straight across from shoulder to shoulder. The dress is paired with a broad, dark-brown velour faux krimmer jacket, which can be fastened by way of two buttons. Its broad lapels reach all the way down to the hem. The accessories are a brown felt cap and a turquoise woolen scarf. The cap is covered with grayish-brown rabbit fur and decorated with brown felt leaves, reminiscent of animal ears.
Rainer Werner Fassbinder Foundation / Deutsche Kinemathek – Museum für Film und Fernsehen, Berlin